An extraordinary gold ring with a cameo belonged to Pope Gregory XIII.

Judging by surviving portraits of Pope Gregory XIII, he was a great lover of rings and wore many others in addition to his official papal ring. This ring was custom-made for the Pope by the renowned jeweler Giacomo Anfossi, who began working for the papal court in 1548.

Intended for the pontiff’s personal use, the ring lacks papal symbols but is richly decorated with intaglios, relief decoration, and enamels (blue, red, black, and white). An engraving on the back indicates that it belonged to Gregory XIII.

The ring had great significance for its owner.

“Cherub means ‘great knowledge.’ … the image of cherubs has a symbolic meaning: the face is a symbol of the soul…” (Clement of Alexandria).

The choice of materials is also significant. Pearls were considered a symbol of purity, chastity, and holiness. The cherub’s head was carved from a vibrant, rich hyacinth. The stone was an amulet, protecting against contagious diseases (primarily the plague), poisons, and suffocation. It protected against evil spirits and nightmares, and warded off melancholy. It was also believed that those suffering from heart disease could make the sign of the cross while holding a hyacinth, and relief would come. These magical effects were supposed to be enhanced by prayer.

Gregory XIII made his name by introducing the Gregorian calendar, developed by the Jesuit priest and astronomer Christopher Clavius, to all Catholic countries.